Lolatastic in the Yorkshire Dales

Buckden, September 2021 (photos by Mr M, Lola II and Lola I)

Another successful camping trip undertaken, this time in the splendid company of Lola II and Mr M. The campsite was on a farm in the middle of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, and when I say in the middle, it really was. We were there for four days, the weather was mostly kind, and Lola II made notes so that I can put extra detail into the blog. Whether I satisfy her or not is another matter...

Monday

The campsite was long and narrow, and we pitched our tents facing one another at the far end of the site, down a short slope. The first day is always spent getting there (I stopped for lunch at an unlikely vegan cafe north of Bradford), pitching the tent, getting all the gear sorted out, getting familiar with the campsite facilities and planning the next few days. 

Unusually there was a little kitchen with a kettle, fridge and microwave as well as the usual toilets and showers, so hot water bottles could be filled very easily rather than boiling water in pans. In the toilets there was free midge spray - not a good omen. We were tormented by midges in the evenings to the extent that we couldn't eat out in the open but had to retreat to the zipped-up porch of the tent.

Because the Leamington Food Festival had been taking place over the weekend, I brought a contribution for our dinner - two different felafel bakes, which confusingly turned out to be three different types, and tasted just OK. Lola II and Mr M contributed the most delicious French cheese and crackers, made even more delicious by the fact that I very rarely have cheese at home. And dessert wine. These guys know about high class camping.

The tiny village with the farm and campsite also contained a tiny village shop (which we visited the following day) and a rather nice pub. It's been ages since I was in a pub so I was quite excited when a visit was proposed, and it also meant that we could charge electrical items and get a decent mobile signal and escape the midges too. The beer was tasty as well, although of course Lola II ordered her traditional lime cordial with water, but also treated herself to a hot chocolate with Baileys in it.

Tuesday

The sky was grey and the forecast was for showers, but we decided to get out while it was still dry and planned a short walk to the next village where there was a pub, although the information provided said there was no food on Monday and Tuesday evenings. The walk took us up high on the way there before dropping down into Starbotton and the pub, which turned out to be closed altogether on Tuesdays. Big disappointment - we were hungry. The walk back was along the river, and then we drove to Hawes and a very late lunch. Mine was a 'half portion' of fish and chips with peas and salad which was so big that I was glad I hadn't ordered a whole portion, Mr M had chips with cheese and gravy, and Lola II went for egg, sausage, chips and beans. Not quite so high class today.

We didn't do much more in Hawes except top up our chocolate and cheese supplies before driving back in the rain. After a nap we went off to the pub again, and despite  arriving 10 minutes after the kitchen closed they were kind enough to let us order food anyway.

Wednesday

Sunshine! Today the walk took us to Malham Cove, which is a famous attraction formed by river and glacial erosion. A dry river valley ends in a spectacular limestone pavement and cliffs (which featured in one of the Harry Potter films). We did the circular walk starting from the top, so were able to descend the hundreds of steps rather than climbing up them. We met a school party coming up - we didn't envy the staff in charge, given the unprotected nature of the drop from the top. 

We made it to Malham village for a pub lunch before returning over the heathland, passing a few notable features including the ice cream van, more waterfalls and cliffs with climbers abseiling around them, and an abandoned bath tub miles from any habitation or road. I really enjoyed the walk; Lola II and Mr M found it a bit challenging, but the roles were reversed the following day.

Thursday

Lola II and Mr M had arrived at our four-day camping holiday at the end of a longer break where they had been in the Lake District and hired electric bicycles. They had enjoyed this so much that we hired bikes for a day with the aim of cycling the Swale Trail from Reeth to Keld.

The guys in the shop showed us how the bikes worked - there were normal gears operated by the right hand, and extra controls for the electric power operated by the left hand. The weight of the battery means that with no extra power it would be impossible for us softies to go anywhere much. Eco mode provided enough power to make the bike ride as though it were a normal weight, then there were three extra boost modes. A low gear and Turbo mode made it possible to ride joyfully up a one in five hill as though it were completely flat.

A quick test ride around the car park made it very clear to me that the optional cushioned saddle cover would be a good idea, but it didn't prevent the pain derived from being battered on the rear end for six hours by the gravel trail and uneven surfaces. Mr M finished the full length of the trail, but Lola II and I turned back when it stopped being fun, and continued to lunch at the tea room in Muker via the road. By the time we got back to the start Lola II was having a bit of trouble with her gears and I was not only suffering pain in the rear end but at the base of my spine as well, so when we got back to the town at the start of the trail I was happy to sit with the bikes while Lola II and Mr M had a quick look around the shops and brought back a restorative Freddo chocolate bar for me.

After returning the bikes we came back to the town centre. Lola II and Mr M have a habit of taking pencils and blank postcards on holiday with them and doing a bit of drawing, so we each took a section of the view and sat quietly for half an hour creating a triptych of the church, buildings and view. Then it was time to find something to eat, and we decided to try a different town that had a selection of eateries, all of which were fully booked except the Indian restaurant (which was perfectly fine).

Friday

Time to pack up and go, and minister to the many bites and bruises that we had accumulated. Before we left Lola II kindly provided me with a haircut, and while she did the same for Mr M I examined the outcome and returned for a few extra bits she had missed the first time round.

Lola II and Mr M were going to finish their holiday in Staffordshire while I went straight home, so we drove together to Skipton for lunch before splitting up. I must say, our choices of food had been exceptionally good throughout the holiday, and this was no exception - I had an egg sandwich which was perfect; Mr M had a great ploughman's lunch (the cheese in the Dales is really good) and Lola II had a salad without onions where they had clearly just tried to pick out the onions and missed quite a few, but the cheese scones were great. The vegan hot chocolate with oat milk was the best I've ever had.

So that's the end of the camping season for this year, and we were lucky with the weather and not so lucky with the midges.